Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

By Paulo Monteiro

The village of Cidões has just 20 inhabitants. It’s located in Trás-os-Montes, in the northern inland of Portugal. Every year, on the Saturday after 31 October, the village celebrates the Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”. The “Canhoto” is a tree trunk that is burned in the bonfire that burns during the festival in the centee of the village.
This is an ancient ritual of Celtic origin. It was originally called “Samhain” and was the most important Celtic celebration in the whole of Europe until their conversion to Christianity. It was with this festival that the Celtic New Year began, with the start of the dark season. This festival came to be known as Halloween. In Cidões, it’s called the Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”.

In the morning, a few men from the village prepare a meal of goat meat, which is cooked for hours in iron pots. At 7 pm, the festival begins, most of which takes place in the center of the village. The giant star is lit and the bonfire is lit with the “Canhoto” placed in the centre. The Celtic procession starts through the village streets towards the festival site: a druid, goddesses, bagpipers and Celtic dances. At 11 pm, the “Cabrão”, or giant goat, a sculptural figure 7 metres high, is burned.

At around midnight, the Devil rides down the village streets to the festival site in an ox cart pulled by local men. The ox cart has its clutches tightened to make the screeching sound more frightening. After the Devil goes round the festival grounds trying to scare the participants, he is expelled by the Druid, only to return a year later. Until then, the village will be protected from all evils, envy, misfortune and bad luck.

The photographs were taken with two Leica bodies: an R5, fitted with an Elmarit 35/2.8 mm and a Metz 32 Z-2 flash, and an R6, fitted with a Summilux 50 mm/1.4, for available light photography. Both lenses were fitted with B+W medium yellow 022 filters. As it was raining, I protected both cameras with rain sleeves.

All photos were shot on Foma 400 Action, an inexpensive but high-quality alternative to the Kodak and Ilford equivalents.

A villager prepares a meal of goat meat.
The druid and the goddesses prepare to parade through the streets of the village.
Fire performers prepare to parade through the streets of the village.
A fire performer close to the “Cabrão”.
Parade of artists through the streets of the village.
A fire artist at work.
The druid and the goddesses arriving to the center of the village.
People pushing the “Cabrão” into the bonfire.
The “Cabrão” burning at the bonfire.
The Devil being led into the village.
The Devil arrives to the center of the village.
The Devil holding a goat skull.
The cameras I used for shooting the photos.

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About The Author

By Paulo Monteiro
Paulo Monteiro was born June 1963, in São Miguel Island, Azores, where he currently lives and works. He has been a photographer since 1985. He has developed long term projects about various subjects, such as popular religiosity, profane festivities, architecture, landscape, Nature, or the world of work. His work has been published and exhibited in Portugal and abroad.
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Comments

Paul Brooks on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Wow, that looks like a great event to witness!
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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Yes, indeed!

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Eric on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Paulo,

Wow... the images and background has left me near speechless. Thank you for sharing.

Eric
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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Thank you for your nice comment.

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Gary Smith on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Interesting to see a festival that differs from what I'm familiar with. Do you do your own film processing? I should probably take at look at Foma as a film stock. Thanks for sharing!
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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Yes, Gary, I process my own negatives. The Foma film has a lot of quality.

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Thanks Paulo. It's been 50 years since I did my own film/print processing. I'd be tempted to start again except my wife has pretty severe chemical sensitivities.

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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Try the E-76 developer, originally formulated by Chris Patton, a vitamin C alternative to D-76. It is free from Hydroquinone, an hazardous chemical. file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/E-76%20FILMDEVELOPER%20(07-07-'20).pdf

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Manuel on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Looks live a satanic event
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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Not at all! The people are very friendly and welcome visitors very well.

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Andrew L on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

I think your choice of film stock and your processing really elevates the scenes you depict. They are chilling, in a good way! I haven't shot Foma 400 for a long time but should go back to it, especially when the light isn't as good. Great composition as well.
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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Thank you Andrew.

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Geoff Chaplin on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Atmospheric images, a great article and illustrations! Thanks.
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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 01/03/2024

Thank you Geoff.

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Ibraar Hussain on Festivity of the Goat and “Canhoto”

Comment posted: 02/03/2024

Fascinating custom !
Interestingly the Kalash people of the Hindu Kush share much of their custom and folk tradition with the celts and ancient European tradition (both part of the aryan tribes who migrated millennia ago)
Goats are scared to these people - and they sacrifice goats at their altars during certain festivals.
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Ibraar Hussain replied:

Comment posted: 02/03/2024

And forgot to mention that your photos are Great - really have captured the atmosphere and the event

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Paulo Monteiro replied:

Comment posted: 02/03/2024

Thank you Ibraar.

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