Liege Leica iiig Elmar

Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

By Geoff Chaplin

It was the weather we all know and love so much as photographers – dull, miserable, cold, a hint of fog but not enough to be interesting, and a soupçon of fine rain (featured image). We arrived for a one night stay having planned the trip when the unerringly accurate weather forecast was part sun / part cloud.

Liege is the capital of Wallonia, the industrial former powerhouse of Belgium, population a little under 700,000 but has two concert halls and an opera house (playing “Tristan und Isolde” when we were there). Walking down the hill from our hotel led to 150 steps taking us to the ‘old town’.

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
150 steps to the old town

Typical narrow cobbled streets had different cobbles running along the centres over the modern drains – and presumably where the drains were in medieval times when “regardez leau” was a shout from above not to be ignored.

Drains running in the centre of the streets marked by different cobbles

On the way we passed the vandalised office of BNP – apparently a protest against BNP’s supposed involvement in and indirect support of Israel in its war against the Palestinians.

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
that’s red paint splattered everywhere

The old town is primarily a shopping area plus drinking and eating places for locals and tourists typical of many old European cities. We were more interested in signs of the city’s former glory so heading back up the 150 steps and turning east it took us to signs of Liege’s former wealth and importance – the Provincial Palace – built, destroyed and rebuilt many times over the past 1000 years.

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
the building now houses the law courts and related offices

Continuing east along a wide street with many impressive late 17th and 18thCE buildings we came to one of Liege’s top attractions: the short-cut between the former military barracks and fort (now little more than rubble) and the town below.

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
374 steps, 374 metres long and 60 metres climb

From the top it looks worse

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
Houses left and right have their front doord onto the steps

Having got there we were greeted by a further 60 steps to the monument and the view of the town – or not, today (above and featured image). It was here that I lowered my arm with the camera hanging by a Hawkesmill wrist strap. The strap has been well used though largely looks like new, but the “keeper” (the little strap around the main strap which allows you to tighten the main strap around your wrist) had unknown to me become loose and slid away from my wrist meaning the strap itself was now loose. Have you heard the sound of chromed brass crashing onto concrete? I unreservedly expressed my opinion of the strap in a rather cross and loud tone.

Encouraged by my wife, a quiet pause followed. After some collection of my thoughts I checked the camera: wind on, shutter cocking, rangefinder alignment and accuracy, shutter firing – all seemed (and was) well apart from the dent on the top-plate adding to the one that was already there (not made be me). That’s only the second time in 50 years I have dropped a camera. The previous time a new Leica MP fell about 30cm from the floor of the car to the tarmac when I opened the car door. The camera no longer worked. Old Leica versus new Leica – old wins.

Rather than tackle the now scary looking 374 steps down we decided to take the easy route, a gently sloping road and a mere 100 steps.

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
less scary route

The following morning we headed to the train station and home via a local train travelling along by the river and former industrial sites – a project for another day. Liege’s train station is ultra-modern and just as impressive as Antwerp’s very different station.

Liege Leica iiig Elmar
Not our train: step back! a Deutsche Bank train for special passengers only
Liege Leica iiig Elmar
Leica iiig, Elmar, the films and the criminal

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About The Author

By Geoff Chaplin
Primarily a user of Leica film cameras and 8x10 for the past 30 years, recently a mix of film and digital. Interests are concept and series based art work. Professionally trained in astronomical photography, a scientist and mathematician.
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Comments

Gary Smith on Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

Comment posted: 03/04/2025

With my wife's aversion to steps, I'm guessing we won't be visiting Liege any time soon. Those are some impressive staircases! I've got a roll in the M3 that I need to finish. I have the new Voigtländer 35/1.4 Nokton mounted and I'm anxious to see some results.

Beautiful shots Geoff!
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Daniel Castelli on Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

Comment posted: 03/04/2025

Nice. Transported me back to the images from the 1920’s & 30’s when 35mm was new. Your photos make it easy to imagine Kertesz wandering about, unknowingly setting standards of 35mm photography that we still follow.
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Wim HH van Heugten on Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

Comment posted: 03/04/2025

Very nice photo's! One remark: DB stand for Deutsche Bahn, not Deutsche Bank.
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RichardH on Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

Comment posted: 04/04/2025

This is interesting, Geoff. Is the PMK Pyro development a factor in the low contrast? Or, was the low contrast due to the weather? I am familiar with the rendering of the Elmar 5cm 3.5, and the FP4 and Foma 100 films, but not the effects of PMK Pyro developer.
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Russ Rosener on Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

Comment posted: 04/04/2025

Excellent article and photos. I am envious you made it up those steps! Not sure I would attempt it and I am likely younger than you.
I know that wrist strap you were cursing. I had one too which did the same thing while holding my Contax IIIa! Luckily I caught it. Those little threads fray quickly. I ended gluing them together and leaving the ends clamped together for days while glue dried. Works much better than the threads!
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Jukka Reimola on Liege with a Leica iiig, Elmar 50mm f3.5, FP4, Fomapan 100 in PMK Pyro and an accident

Comment posted: 04/04/2025

Very nice photos, as always by you! Makes me want visit Belgium. Your success rate of NOT dropping cameras has been excellent too. I have dropped one camera, during my forty years of photography. It is statisticly probably bound to happen again soon...
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