5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

By Robin Mascall

Chances are, if you’re into film photography, you’ve at least heard the terms ‘pushing’ and ‘pulling’ film. In a nutshell, pushing or pulling film involves rating your film at a speed different from what’s indicated on the box. You then adjust for this difference during development. Pushing means assigning a higher speed, while pulling means assigning a lower speed. During development is where the real magic happens. You’ll need to adjust your process times. If you get your film developed by a lab, you’ll need to ensure that you mark your rolls accordingly, so they know what to do.There’s a heap of reasons for doing so, perhaps you’re shooting expired film (there’s a whole other kettle of fish…) looking for more versatility or even going for a specific look. There’s an excellent breakdown guide here: The Darkroom

Tri-X is one of my favourite film stocks, and I quite often shoot with it at 1600 iso. I mainly do it for the versatility when shooting in low light, or trying to capture faster action. I have young kids, and tend to shoot without a flash indoors, and then step outside and continue with the same camera.

After being gifted a brick of Kodak Tri-X 400, I realised I had a fair bit of film sitting in the fridge, so I decided to see what would happen if I went further, and decided to push some Kodak Tri-X to 3200. It doesn’t seem, at least from what I could tell, that it’s something a lot of people do.

What better time to experiment with film than a weekend away with family and friends? We had a long weekend here in Western Australia, so my family and I loaded up the car, I grabbed my trusty Nikon FM2n and headed south to the town of Dunsborough, approximately a 3 hour drive from home. A quick detour to the local boarding kennel, a lovely place called Canine Country Club, and we were on our way.

Our kelpie x staffy, looking concerned about being in the car
Teddy, suspicious of where we are going

 

Storms were forecast for most of the South West for our time away, and we soon ran into wet weather. Noticing the way the water was running across the window, I had to get an image of it. This was one of the first images I looked properly at after developing, as I couldn’t work out what the heck it was at first!

Rain running up the passenger window as we travel down the highway
Rain on my window
Cars on the highway, whilst it's raining, framed by the windscreen wiper
Bussel Highway. Southbound!

Just over halfway, and the kids were growing restless. Trying to keep two kids who are both under ten entertained in the car can sometimes be a challenge. Numerous rounds of I-Spy, car spotto and sing-alongs later, we pulled into a carpark at a local skate park for a stretch and a play. If you ever need some spare shoes, I can recommend a place!

Laced up
My son does a quick workout at the skate park
Workout time!

I finished the roll on the rest of the trip to Dunsborough, and decided to shoot the remainder of the trip at a more familiar speed of 1600, so I could be sure of getting some good images. I couldn’t help but wonder how the push would work out.

So, not many people shooting Tri-X @ 3200 means there is very little info on development times. After a fair bit of searching, I came across one random comment on a post (and I wish I could find it again) that offered some suggestions. Armed with minimal info, and a keen determination to see what had happened, I developed in Kodak HC-110 with the following steps:

  • 22 minutes @ 21 degrees Celsius
  • 10 inversions every 60 seconds
  • 60 second stop bath (Ilfostop)
  • 5 minutes in fixer (Ilfofix)
  • Rinsed using the Ilford method (fill tank with water, 5 inversions, empty and refill, 10 inversions, empty and refill, 20 inversions)
  • Final rinse for 60 seconds in distilled water with Photo-Flo

Overall, I have to say I’m pleased with the results! It could use a little refining, but I think it was definitely taking the chance and will be something I will definitely revisit.

Thanks for reading my first article on 35mmc! Please check out my instagram and my website.

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About The Author

By Robin Mascall
Dad of two, located in Perth, Western Australia Keen film and digital photographer Currently shooting on: Nikon FM2n Ricoh GR III HDF Fujifilm GFX 100s Shen Hao 45 II-b Shen Hao 617 back
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Comments

Safiyyah on 5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

These images look great, from what I can see here not excessive grain at all / what TriX can be famous for. Thanks for sharing!
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Robin Mascall replied:

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

I’m glad you enjoyed the article! I was quite surprised at how the images came out to be honest. I’m quite happy with it! My brother in law is a singer and jazz artist, I might shoot another roll at 3200 next time we’re at the club.

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Stephen Fretz on 5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

You might want to check out the Accufine family of developers. Acu-1 can alllegedly get your Tri-X up to 6400...
See: https://www.camcor.com/cat/Acufine-Developer-1-qt-AFD32.html
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Robin Mascall replied:

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

Thanks Stephen, I’ll be sure to check it out. Pushing to 6400 would be interesting, and grainy I bet!

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Laurence Kesterson on 5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

As a newspaper photographer in the 80's we used to shoot tri-x at 3200 quite often. It was the only way to photograph some night sports on dimly lit fields. T-Max developer with Tri-X gave excellent results and was much better than the D76, which we used for normal processing. I believe half of the T-Max 3200 film magic was in the developer.
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Robin Mascall replied:

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

I quite like T-Max as well. I shoot a bit of T-Max 100 on my 4x5, the results are lovely.

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Russ Rosener on 5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

Cool experiment. And love Tri-X. It's the first film I really started to get creative with in High School and later in college courses. It's quite capable of going to 3200 ISO. The results will be "iffy" but can be quite abstract. We used to push it that far using a developer called "Acufine". I'm not sure it's even still available but it was a powder which came in a can.
I thought you might be shooting with the Yashica FR. I have the FR 1 version and it's a strikingly a good SLR at a bargain.
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Robin Mascall replied:

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

Someone else recommended Acufine too. Not sure if there’s an Australian distributor, but I’ll look into it. Yes, the Yashica FR is a great camera. They seem to sell for $30-40 AUD with a lens at the moment. I overpaid for this one but it’s all part of the game.

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Walt Polley on 5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

MassiveDev has it all - https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Kodak+Tri-X+400
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Robin Mascall replied:

Comment posted: 19/11/2024

Interesting. I’ve had their paid app for several years. When I did this experiment, I couldn’t find any info on their app or site. These guys are fantastic, the app is definitely a must have if you’re doing your own dev.

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Alex Hayes on 5 Frames of Kodak Tri-X @3200

Comment posted: 21/11/2024

Awesome post. I absolutely love the first image of your dog in the well of your car, so much emotion!
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