Rolleiflex 2,8GX review

Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

By Geoff Chaplin

There are many reviews of the 2.8F – here I concentrate on the differences between the Rolleiflex 2,8 GX and F, why I bought a GX and my experiences with it having shot around 30 rolls of film. The featured image shows my Rolleiflex with two Chinese made Bay 3 to 43mm filter adapters, lens protection filters attached to both the taking and viewing lens, and a yellow filter attached over the taking lens. Zeiss 43mm clip-fit lens caps can also be fitted without having to remove the filters.

Rolleiflex 2,8GX review
Zeiss lens caps attached

The Rolleiflex 2.8 has a long history in various incarnations dating back to 1949 – see camera-wiki.org/wiki/Rolleiflex or wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolleiflex for details. The series finally (?) came to an end in the insolvency auction in 2015 only a few years after the final model, the FX-N, had been released. Not only cameras but also production equipment were sold off. But a rolleiflex.us website still exists…

“Rolleiflex” is a camera name, the 2,8GX being manufactured by Rollei Fototechnic GMBH; “Rollei” is now a name used for a range of films produced by Maco of Germany.

Why did I buy a Rolleiflex 2,8GX? I’ve owned both a 3.5 (model B) and a 2.8F “white face”, as well as a Rolleicord recently, which I used for a while and then sold, so why did I buy another? Several things attracted me to the GX over the earlier models:

1. The lenses have modern coatings resulting in a more modern (sharp, contrasty) looking image. I’m not a portrait photographer, if I was the decision might have favoured the softer look of the F.

2. The film loading system is a manual one requiring aligning the “start” line on the film with two red dots on the camera body. The automatic loading system of the F sometimes fails particularly on modern thin films such as those marketed under the Rollei name, and I am a user of Rollei films in 35mm and 120 format.

Rolleiflex 2,8GX review
Red dots

3. The screen on the GX is much brighter than that on the F (of course a “brightscreen” can be retro-fitted to the F), and the GX is of course newer than the F.

Rolleiflex 2,8GX review
The screen, and a green light

One other major difference that did not particularly matter to me since I regularly use incident light metering is:

4. The Rolleiflex 2,8GX has a built-in centre-weighted meter

However, since getting used to the Rolleiflex 2,8GX, I have come to trust and use the meter even though incident light metering is easier than centre-weighted (the latter requires exposure adjustment depending on the brightness of the metered area relative to “mid-grey”). The meter indicates the correct exposure by an LED light system – red being a stop or more under (left side) or over (right side), orange half a stop, and green “correct”. But there is an additional hassle. Metering is done through the viewing lens not the taking lens. So if you put a filter on the taking lens you have to adjust aperture or shutter speed to correct for the filter factor, or lower the film speed by the filter factor.

There seems to be heated debate on the internet regarding the ‘lack of robustness’ or ‘plasticky’ feel of the GX compared to the F. The two cameras weigh virtually the same, and I have found no evidence of inferior quality other than the PTFE being torn (see below) and the plastic part of the strap not the camera.

According to camera-wiki my model was made in 1995 or 1996, but the coded serial number indicates 1997. I had spent some time searching for a GX or FX with many ‘mint’ condition cameras appearing on ebay but few in the shops. Eventually I bought the camera off ebay in the UK, having met the person selling the camera who said he had put only one film through it to test the camera. The camera looked brand new and the PTFE liner on the film pressure plate was undamaged suggesting the camera had been a shelf queen all it life. What a waste! After I had put half a dozen or so films through the PTFE started to show signs of wear (the plastic end of the film spool gradually cuts through the liner). This has no significant consequence in terms of image taking, ease of loading or ease of wind on.

Rolleiflex 2,8GX review
Pressure plate and PTFE (low friction plastic). Damage occurs on the extreme right where the spool end cuts through the PTFE.

So how has the Rolleiflex 2,8GX been? A joy to use! One thing to note is after loading a new film, after winding on to frame 1, then you need to rewind the handle through a full turn to be sure of correct operation. I have had zero camera errors leading to lost or incorrectly exposed frames, the viewfinder has been wonderful and the meter is accurate. I generally carry the camera using a wrist strap where it is inconspicuous. Only once have I been approached by another cameraman (carrying a 100mpxl Hasselblad) and his student (with an A7Riv) who wanted to know if you could still buy film! Oh dear!

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About The Author

By Geoff Chaplin
Primarily a user of Leica film cameras and 8x10 for the past 30 years, recently a mix of film and digital. Interests are concept and series based art work. Professionally trained in astronomical photography, a scientist and mathematician.
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Comments

Louis Sousa on Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Interesting post. What type of battery is used and where is it installed? The meter on my 2.8F is still accurate (enough).....
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

A 6v Duracell 28L (lithium) or 4SR44 (silver oxide) or equivalent. Installed in the focus knob.

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Louis Sousa replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Ah yes, I see the meter panel there. Thank you!

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Ibraar Hussain on Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Thanks Geoff for the review.
A few years ago, just when DHW Fototechnik went bust in 2015 I was about to pull the trigger on a Rolleiflex 2.8 FX one of the last made, as they were selling off all stock at discount prices.
I regret not doing so.
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ibbz replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

even though they cost a small fortune

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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Good to hear from you Ibraar - I'm looking forward to your next post. Oh, Ibraar, what a mistake! I nervously bought an auction stock FX, put one film through it, and thought the shutter release was faulty because it was so hard. I put the camera away kicking myself for wasting the money and it sat unused for many years. I then sold it a few years back - for 5 times the initial cost! Latterly I found out the shutter release is meant to be like that.

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Ibraar Hussain replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Just to let you know I've just today submitted a new Rolleiflex 3.5F post to Hamish for publishing, I used a Rolleinar II close up filter with it as well. I went full Rollei and the film was Rollei Pan 25, a Rollei bayonet yellow filter with a Rondinax 60 light tank!!!

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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Excellent, Ibraar the purist! I'm looking forward to it!

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Jeffery Luhn on Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Geoff,
Thanks for your post! That is an expensive camera! I have a Rolleicord and a Mamiya 330, and I was still interested in the model you describe. It sounds nice. Have you done any lens performance tests with older TLRs?
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Thanks Jeffery. No I haven't done any scientific testing just my impressions from use. I have to say I thought the 3.5B lens was the best out of the pre-GX flexes, and the images from the GX strike me as Zeiss-like.

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Matthew Bigwood on Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Great review. I tried out a 2.8GX at a photo show in the UK in the 90s (being a 1970s white face 2.8 F user) and thought the wind-on was less robust than the F&H models - the salesman told me to stop trying the film advance in the way I would have done on my camera. The optics are more modern and must be better coated than those of the 1970s. Still, the Rolleiflex TLRs are the cameras I rate above everything else.
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 23/12/2024

Thanks Matthew. I think the more you move away from 35mm the more compromises are made - thinking about TLR vs Hassy vs RZ67. For me the TLR is the most satisfying to use though less satisfying than 35mm kit.

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Kodachromeguy on Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

Comment posted: 24/12/2024

Interesting review, thanks! I use a 3.5E with a remarkable Xenotar lens (better than the 3.5s on two previous Rolleiflex bodies). In your case, why did you opt to not use Bay III filters? They are so handy.
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 24/12/2024

Thanks for the comment. Simply because bay3 are specific to Rolleiflex but 43mm screw filters fit some of my other lenses.

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Huss on Rolleiflex 2,8GX – A Short Review and Comparisons with the 2.8F

Comment posted: 30/12/2024

Nice review.
I kept my GX but sold my perfect condition 2.8E because those era cameras are now prone to lens separation due to age. And as far as I know, while techs still service Rolleiflexes, no-one is willing to repair lens separation in them.
So I sold it before it happened (and who knows - maybe it would have been fine for the next few decades?) which was ok as the GX has a much better focusing screen, and the excellent built in meter.

Comparing the two, the old Rolleiflexes are definitely much better built than the last batch. Everything is smoother and more solid feeling, and cost cutting can be seen on the FX/GX. For example, on the focus knob the old cameras had the markings engraved and filled in. On the FX/GX they are printed on which can wear off if one is clumsy.
The VF hood mechanism is much better engineered on the old cameras, the new ones are more fiddly and less solid.
As mentioned the old ones have the auto load but this is actually where I prefer the new regular load system, as it never needs to be adjusted, works properly with any film and is one less thing to worry about.
The old ones have a much smoother shutter button release because the news ones have the half stage to trigger the meter. It would have been nice if they just had a separate button top trigger the meter, and kept the old silky smooth shutter button action.

With all those thing I much prefer the newer FX and GX because they are better shooters. The things that matter in actual picture taking - the brighter screen with split image, the light meter, the better lens coatings, the lack of lens separation - make it worth while.
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 30/12/2024

Thanks for your comments Huss. I agree about the shutter/meter activation button - separate would be better. I wonder though how much of the smoothness of the older cameras is down to construction or down to wear over time.

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