Don’t be afraid to experiment and test before tossing stuff out

By Daniel Keating

I am a denizen of thrift stores here in the USA. I believe the British refer to them as 2nd hand or charity shops across the pond. I was a bit surprised to see old photo chemicals in bottles and cans at one I habituate. In the past I have gotten enlargers and photo paper at this particular one.

A bit of a small jackpot on this trip. A Minolta 600SI model with a lot of desirable modes & features and a kit 28-80 Tamron zoom for $7.99. I’m not a huge fan of the plastic fantastics but with all the manual options a learner could actually use this camera and have fun.

$7.99 thrift store score

One of the issues with these 90’s electronic cameras is the 2CR5 battery needed. A fresh battery is more than the camera. To get around this in the long run I build my own rechargables from 2 lithium 123a batteries and a 3d printed frame.

home made rechargable

Looks like the electronics are OK – I get a display response and shutter activates

I’m in the habit of buying bulk rolls whenever possible. I got a 1000 ft reel of cinematic 5231 Plus X from the 80’s that comes out quite well. So I have the film for the camera test. What about the developer?

Luckily for me the thrift store also had some chems in bottles & cans too. There are, of course, some cautions to observe. Old chems from back in the day could very well be banned or restricted chemicals today. Things that were commonly sold like Potassium Dichromate are horribly toxic and need PPE and gear on hand to use it safely. Or better yet, find modern replacements that are less toxic. Whatever the chemical though, please don’t take any risks without being well informed first – if you know what you are looking at, great, if you don’t then make sure to do your research!

This 50g bottle of Mallinckrodt Pyrogallic acid was near full. Based on the twist cap vs a stopper bottle this dates to the mid-1940’s to the 1950’s is my best guess. A rubber or cork stopper would make it pre-ww2. Only $1.99 less my senior discount.

pyrogallic acid from the 40’s-50’s

Yeah, I got a bit of pyro for $1.99 at the thrift store – but is it any good? I whipped up a small 100ml batch of 510 pyro and wanted to give it a whirl on a test roll from the thrift store camera. But first, a chip test. After making the 100ml batch of 510pyro I dipped in a cotton bud or Q-Tip as we call them here and applied a smear to a junk piece of exposed leader. The leader started going black in 2 seconds. A sign of high activity.

chip test for developer activity

After affirming that the developer should do it’s basic job we then make a normal dilution and proceed onto a roll of test exposures.

looks like 510 pyro to me
my wife
lemon leaf
Nyx the semi-wonder dog

The takeaway from this is that it’s wise not to turn your nose up at an opportunity at a low cost risk.

This 5gal mix of USAF surplus paper developer was $8 for the can. 2.11g will develop a roll of film quite well. By batch splitting and only measuring out whats needed this can of powder will process 1,272 rolls of film. Look at the grain on this 400 film–gotta love it. The can was 1966 vietnam war surplus

My nikki
USAF surplus paper developer for film developer

You might come into a trove of goodies from an estate flip or friend of a friend. Don’t just assume old chems and old films are bad. Cans and bottles are usually a safe bet. Foil pouches are “iffy” as pinholes are common. With recent QC issues I trust cans from the 70’s more so than bags from 2020.

Speaking of old cans – Kodak used a date code for their canned products. Here is an old can of Microdol (BEFORE Microdol X). The second photo of the top of the can shows the date code. The first 2 numbers “59” denote the year of manufacture. The “12” is the twelfth week of the year (beginning of April).

Old can of Microdol
date code on can lid

Cans rarely go bad. Your enemy here is a failure of a solder joint somewhere in it’s history. To avoid this before you buy the can, give it a shake. The contents inside should shift like dry sand or salt. If it’s a solid chunk clunking around it’s likely bad. This one passed the sound check and upon opening it we see it looks like the day it was canned in April of 1959.

65 year old chemistry

I calculated 10.25g for a roll of 300ml capacity at a 1:3 dilution and 27 mins based on a chip test performed. Did I figure correctly?

5231 PlusX in 65 year old microdal
5231 Plus X 65 yr old microdol

This pound glass bottle of Hydroquinone was $2.40 originally. The thrift store price was $7 less my senior discount. A pound today in the US is $23 plus shipping. If we plug $2.40 into an online inflation calculator it’s value is $19.23 so $23 is pretty close to the price adjusted for inflation. So I paid roughly 1/3 of the “new” cost for 50 year old HQ that’s perfectly usable.

1970’s Pound jar of hydroquinone

So in closing, don’t turn your nose up at old cans or bottles of chems. Dry chems last almost indefinitely. I grew up dirt poor with zero budget as a teen enthusiast and would have dearly loved to find cheap chems to stretch that dollar. Just make sure to be cautious if you don’t know what you’re doing!
Daniel Keating, Tucson AZ USA

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Comments

Gary Smith on Don’t be afraid to experiment and test before tossing stuff out

Comment posted: 30/10/2024

I believe that your thrift store treasures have all turned out well for you. I love the grain and contrast you've gotten on some of your posted images.
And who can argue with your price calculations?
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murray leshner on Don’t be afraid to experiment and test before tossing stuff out

Comment posted: 31/10/2024

I'm jealous. But then I remembered a stack of boxes of paper & film I left in the garage since I got them long ago.

Thanks for the perspective on foil chemical packs not being as durable (think of the non-survivor in the beginning of the original Planet of the Apes. Or better yet, don't do that). I have read of people doing reckless experiments like supplementing questionable developer powders with Vitamin C, as both a superadditive gamble AND an antioxidant.

As long as you're not shooting someone's wedding, the experiment can be part of the journey.

I still wonder whether ancient RA paper has any usefulness (even if it has silver in it for people who do silver recovery).
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Daniel Keating replied:

Comment posted: 31/10/2024

Nothing reckless about ascorbic acid in developers. Xtol has it as am ingredient. But one does have to be cautious in experimenting and adding stuff willy nilly. I posted a formula with that ingredient and someone just assumed that citric acid could be substituted in it's place. Nope, that's a stop bath Chem. The old or fogged paper can be reclaimed by carbon printers. They will fix and wash the bad paper and re-coat with their "emulsion" and reuse it.

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Paul Quellin on Don’t be afraid to experiment and test before tossing stuff out

Comment posted: 01/11/2024

Absolutely amazing. I only seem to come across old cameras, but I'll be looking out for chemicals now too.
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Gabriele Coassin on Don’t be afraid to experiment and test before tossing stuff out

Comment posted: 01/11/2024

Great!
I subscribe to every word of Daniel Keating.
Personally, I am an experimenter in unlikely alchemy rather than a photographer. And this story confirms for me the nonsense of my students who complain that they cannot practice analog photography because it is too expensive. The last photography exhibition I did, in a Venetian villa, was a challenge for this very reason. More than a hundred photographs made with a 20-euro SLR, a 30-meter roll of FP4 film from 1999, and old packs of photographic paper I had left in storage in the late 1980s.
Just to top it off, for the same exhibition I also made several high-definition time-lapses with a 2004 Nikon digital compact, bought at a flea market for a few euros.
Only a few perfectionists noticed some inconsistency in the results, but the challenge with my students was won.
Gabriele Coassin, Treviso, Italy
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Daniel Keating replied:

Comment posted: 01/11/2024

I cringe at times from remarks like, " I only shoot with a Barnack Leica" . Or the insistence of having to spend $50 on a Weston thermometer. Gear snobbery at its finest. Here in the USA boric acid is sold as Roach powder. Most drain cleaners are pure sodium hydroxide. I posted a list of common household goods and the base Chems they are comprised of. You just need to look at safety data sheets and make sure of the absence of perfumes and possible contaminates. One guy absolutely freaked out that I was using " bug spray" on my film. It was hilarious. I informed him that I used the same "bug spray" and made a 3% solution to cure my dog of "pink eye" (conjunctivitis). Chemistry is chemistry. You are teaching your students correctly. They need to be resourceful. One can spend $125 on a Gary Fong flash modifier or make one from a plastic ware salad bowl from a thrift store and some velcro.

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Josh on Don’t be afraid to experiment and test before tossing stuff out

Comment posted: 02/11/2024

When i moved into my place with its lovely big basement. I found an old amber glass bottle of methylated spirits, multilabels from the chemists that had refilled it. Weird metal flip cap thing.

I was suspicious of the cap but delighted to find that it was still perfectly drinkable...
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